Thursday, August 7, 2025

Ekinishi

This post is the second of the VAoJ Hiroshima Research Trip Arc. In keeping with my recent and ongoing tachinomi project, I wanted to experience the social/drinking nightlife of Hiroshima. Rather than my usual haphazard exploration of good drinking establishments, I decided to check out a famous area supposedly full of good shops called Ekinishi, located very close to the Hiroshima train station. The websites I found made it look very attractive in terms of my shitamachi tastes.

Dive! Hiroshima Ekinishi: https://dive-hiroshima.com/en/feature/night-ekinishi/

pikabu 14 Recommended Restaurants in Hiroshima Ekinishi! Popular and affordable restaurants serving oysters, okonomiyaki, and more: https://www.bm-peekaboo.com/information/2-73/

But before the heavy fieldwork/photography/drinking, I wanted to experience the taste of Hiroshima, traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki. A friendly taxi driver dropped me off in front of the Ekinishi area and indicated that the shop a street over would be a good place to go.
It was still a little early in the evening so there were just a few customers. But the place looked legit. The master, quiet and stern, told me the shop was 35 years old. I told him the nature of my quest and he confirmed that my choice of the okonomiyaki special was a good one. He made the okonomiyaki with the help of one of his Vietnamese staff and soon it was ready.
Now I am no stranger to okonomiyaki, that is the original (bias alert) Osaka variety, but all I had was my enthusiasm and taste buds to judge. It tasted good! I liked the egg on the bottom and the noodles in the middle. I saw another customer add more sauce to his food, so I did as well, which added to the good taste. But my heart (and taste buds) belong to Osaka...

So now with a full stomach and a good start to my fieldwork, I checked out the vibe of Ekinishi.

At first, I liked it. There was a lot of potential for interesting photographs. I hoped that the drinking establishments would also be to my liking.
But in the end I was disappointed. Apparently many shops are closed on Monday evenings. And the shops that were open were small and crowded. I was denied entry to three shops. I was getting hotter, sweatier and tired wandering up and down the streets. I think a little melancholy of the trip to the Hiroshima Peace Park and Museum added to my growing foul mood. All I wanted was a cool place to sit down and have a nice drink. Kyoki-to-Ranbu was literally the last shop on the corner and appeared to be empty. It was one of those places where you have to order with your smart phone. And it was a little expensive. But the owner and staff were friendly enough. After a snack a a couple of drinks I started on my way to my hotel.
But I was not very pleased with the evening. As I got closer to the station, I found what some would call the enemy territory. This was an izakaya devouted to the Hiroshima Carp baseball team (who would be hosting the Hanshin Tigers the next evening). It was a newish, generic sports bar decked out with baseball paraphernalia and the Carp colors, red and white. The menu was standard izakaya fare, but large and reasonsble. Each dish was named after a Carp player who liked the particular dish. It was an interesting end to the evening and got me ready for the main event the next day.
The next post of the VAoJ Hiroshima Research Trip Arc will be on the Hiroshima Carp vs. Hanshin Tigers game at the Mazda Zoom-Zoom Stadium, along with the gourmet food offerings at the venue.

Wednesday, August 6, 2025

Hiroshima Peace Park: Photographs and JSL Video Testimonies

My research trip this summer was to Hiroshima. The first place I went to was the Hiroshima Memorial Peace Park and Museum. I have been there before, on August 6, 1997. My companion was a proud Hawaiian-American of Japanese descent. He expressed many mixed emotions about our visit. I remember being overwhelmed with disbelief, sadness, anger... How could this have ever happened? (Why didn't I learn much about this in my history classes?) How can we prevent this from happening again? The artifacts, photographs and artwork were moving and powerful. Everyone, no matter what their politics or thoughts about WWII, needs to see this, to experience this.

On my second trip, after I purchased my ticket I asked if I could take photographs of the exhibition. The answer was yes, as long as I didn't use flash or anything else distracting. As I entered, I asked myself, why do I want to take pictures here? What would I do with them? Pictures of pictures taken out of the context of the reserved and solemn whole of the presentation would gut the experience. So I put my cameras away. Other visitors were snapping away on their smart phones - I wondered how they decided to choose which shots they took.

As I was leaving the museum, I realized I had seen these photos before. I am not talking about my trip 28 years ago, but what I see on the TV news and social media every day: Gaza, Ukraine, Syria, Iraq, Somalia, Ethiopia, Haiti... the list goes on and on. The contexts and situations are different. But they are sites of massive poverty, death, devastation and stupid, unnecessary violence utilizing advanced technological weapons (and some old-fashioned tactics as well). The power of photography is waning. These scenes are just not shocking to many people these days. So I wonder what kind of impact a visit to the Hiroshima Peace Museum would have on my students today. (This is the seed of a future class lecture; any input or suggestions are welcome.)

Still, I urge my students and everyone to go.

One thing I noticed this time, and I don't remember seeing it 28 years ago, was the use of monitors that had videos explaining some of the exhibition in Japanese Sign Language. That the museum seems concerned with barrier-free and accessibility must be noted. According to their website, they offer human interpreters for two languages: English and JSL. They also have video exhibitions of hibakusha (surviving victims of the atomic bombs). Here are some examples that can be found on YouTube:

Sign Language Testimony of Hiroshima by Tomoe Kurokawa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZxR540tLiT8

Sign Language Testimony of Hiroshima - Mr. Toshihisa Nakata: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mK5igwUPLjg

Sign Language Testimony of Hiroshima – Mr. Katsumi Takabu: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhUyLIdOA9U

And here is some visual history from today's Newe York Times:
80 Years Ago, Nuclear Annihilation Came to Japan. What the world’s only atomic bombings, carried out by Americans, did to Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
URL: https://www.nytimes.com/2025/08/05/world/asia/hiroshima-nagasaki-japan-nuclear-photos.html

Here are some of my photos from the Peace Park, the kind you have seen before because everybody takes the same or similar shots...
The next post of the VAoJ Hiroshima Research Trip Arc will be on traditional Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki and the Ekinishi drinking area.

Thursday, July 31, 2025

石西正二 / Isonishi Masaji

Our final correspondence:

石西: 明日の事はわかりませんが
とりあえず楽しくておつきあいをいただいたこと
ありがとうございました

me: BEST FRIEND

石西: ゆーつー

This might not be the most appropriate memorial photo for my friend Isonishi-san. But it is my favorite of the many photos I took of him over the years. I like to think it captures a lot about who and what he was: gregarious, friendly, funny, intelligent, informed... He adored his wife, his cats and dogs, the Beatles, trying to speak English and the Hanshin Tigers.

Isonishi and his wife ran a coffee shop in Tenri city in Nara prefecture called "Apple." Apple was a very important place and space for me, family, friends and many others. Isonishi taught me a lot and influenced me in many ways. There were so many good times. But now I find that words escape me. I put together a small album of photos I took to give to his wife and family. I feel that this is a time when photos can evoke memories and feelings better than words. At least my words now.
Isonishi-san passed away on July 13, 2025, at the age of 78. For now, may he rest in peace. But I have a feeling that I will be reunited with him again.

Sunday, July 27, 2025

Kayashima Shrine Summer Matsuri (July 27, 2025) / 萱島神社夏祭り(2025年7月27日) / PLUS! A Surprise Bonus! / さらに!サプライズボーナス!

A HOT early Sunday afternoon, the deafening sound of the cicadas on the cherry tress that line the small stream behind out house, and the sound of shouting and taiko drums approaching... "Washai! Washai!" This is the parade of the Kayashima Shrine Summer Festival mikoshi (portable shrine). There are two mikoshi this year, a small, light one hoisted by children and a large one in the back of a truck along with a taiko drum. During this parade, the local deity of the shrine is temporarily transferred to the mikoshi so that it can bestow blessings to all as it moves through the neighborhood. In the past, the mikoshi was hoisted by an army of hot, sweaty men and women. These days, due to the dwindling number of children and elderly people (as a result of the low birth rate and aging society), COVID-19 (durimg the pandemic years) and the sweltering hot tempertures, the number of participants is low and the truck is used. It is a very different scene than it was several years ago, as can be seen here in 2013:

https://visualanthropologyofjapan.blogspot.com/2013/07/local-matsuri-i-mikoshi.html

and here in 2014:

https://visualanthropologyofjapan.blogspot.com/2014/08/local-matsuri-2014-edition.html

But still, the festival goes on...
BONUS: Mushrooms on the cherry trees (I actually noticed these a month ago)...

Thursday, July 24, 2025

Takeshi Mamezuka Photo Exhibition "People Who Didn't Hear the Pika-don Bang"

Text and photos from kyoto-muse.jp.

The Kyoto Museum of Photography's Gallery Japanesque will be holding a photo exhibition by Takeshi Mamezuka entitled "People Who Didn't Hear the Pikachu/Snake Bang" from Tuesday, July 22nd to Sunday, July 27th, 2025 .

The deaf victims of the Nagasaki atomic bomb have survived the postwar period while bearing the triple suffering of being deaf, unable to speak, and exposed to the atomic bomb. Using a 6x6 format camera, Mamezuka carefully captured their way of life, getting very close to their inner selves. What is captured in his photographs are various thoughts and suffering, as well as the many expressions that only Mamezuka could capture by facing his subjects head-on.


The first paragraph of the artist statement: The atomic bombing had faded from people's memories, and the footsteps of war could be heard, when the news of the Hidankyo's Nobel Peace Prize came in. This year marks the 80th anniversary of the bombing. Deaf atomic bomb survivors of Nagasaki live with the desire for peace and the bombing experience. Looking back, it all began 40 years ago when a group of sign language interpreters was formed in Nagasaki. In Nagasaki, it was thought that one could not fully understand the lives of deaf people without knowing the bombing, so they began to record the experiences of the atomic bombing. As I had a close relationship with the sign language interpreters, I received a request to "record the experience photographically." As a group with no money, we began making volunteer visits to Nagasaki. We continued to visit Nagasaki for nearly 10 years.

Takeshi Mamezuka Photo Exhibition "People Who Didn't Hear the Pikadon Bang"
2025/07/22 ~ 2025/07/27
Gallery Japanesque, Kyoto Museum of Photography


For more information: https://kyoto-muse.jp/news/185559

See also: https://kyoto-muse.jp/exhibition/184680

Thursday, July 3, 2025

Where to get baseball cards in Japan? Forget the bubblegum, think potato chips and kaki no tane... (and updated 7/14/25)

When I was growing up in America, I would often buy baseball cards that came with a stick (and scent) of bubblegum. But here in Japan, you can get baseball cards when you buy a certain brand of potato chips and a certain brand of kaki no tane (small, crescent-shaped rice crackers flavored with soy sauce and chili). Here are a couple of recent purchases...
I bought 3 small packs of chips at my neighborhood convenience store in Kadoma-shi. You get two cards per pack. Unfortunately I didn't get any Hanshin Tigers player cards this time.

*******
I found these kaki no tane at a convenience store in Kyoto. I had never seen these before. You get one card per pack. I was lucky to get one Hanshin Tigers player card, Nakano Takumu. My daughter and I enjoy opening up the packs and seeing which players we got, and then eating the snacks. Go Tigers!

UPDATE! 7/14/25:

Recently when we bought potato chips we got a "lucky card." We sent it in the the company and received a small folder to keep our cards in good condition.

Wednesday, June 18, 2025

The Latest Hanshin Tigers Merch

Bonus(?):

This picture pretty much says it all... 7 losses in a row. And on Umeno's birthday no less (he did get a hit, but was tagged out when he tried to steal second). Maybe they need to eat more bananas...

Sunday, June 15, 2025

Japanese-style garden in Grand Rapids, Michigan , USA

"Bright morning light on pond and path around the garden"
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mi_shigapics/51427254438/in/album-72157712160299046

Thanks to Guven Witteveen for sharing this info through the Society for East Asian Anthropology listserv. Guven's comments: 

Probably there are many cities and countries with some form of Japanese-style garden. Of all the cultural landscapes around the world, there only seem to be a few traditions so widely exported during colonial eras and during global times today. Among the many forms of Soft Power, I wonder how gardens fit in at the level of individual impressions formed and popular imagination, too.

The link he provided comes from the sister-city relationship between Grand Rapids, Michigan and Omi-Hachiman in Shiga prefecture, Japan.

Context: As we mark 30 Years of Frederik Meijer Gardens & Sculpture Park, we're also honoring a special milestone: 10 Years of the Richard & Helen DeVos Japanese Garden! 🌸

This serene oasis was crafted by the visionary Hoichi Kurisu and Kurisu International, a firm renowned for creating "inner spaces" that inspire and heal. Their unique approach weaves together the essence of place, people, and purpose to nurture nature's restorative power. 🌿

Did you know that Hoichi's original design remained remarkably consistent from concept to completion? 📝It's a testament to his clear vision! In the final summer before its opening, about 30 artisans from Japan joined us to bring this tranquil haven to life. Many structures were built in Japan and reassembled on site, with a large tent housing material shipped from across the globe. 🌏

Hoichi is an architect of space, crafting intimate areas that unfold into expansive strolling gardens. Each visit reveals new wonders! Join us in celebrating these milestones and experience the beauty of art and nature intertwined.

#MeijerGardens #JapaneseGarden #30Years #10Years #NatureMeetsArt


Link to "Meijer Gardens in Grand Rapids" flickr page:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mi_shigapics/albums/72157712160299046/

Sunday, June 8, 2025

New Publication: "An archive of archives lost" by Dada Docot

Abstract: ‘An Archive of Archives Lost’ is an affective autoethnographic visual essay that examines the devastating impact of climate change through the lens of personal loss. The Philippines is among the countries most vulnerable to the ongoing climate crisis, with tropical storms getting stronger and more frequent. As a result of the intensified damage, many homes have lost their personal photographic archive, which used to bring together families and community through shared memories. The repeated experience of typhoons, flooding, and loss has made the community attuned to a routine cycle of letting go. The destruction of photographs symbolizes a deeper loss of cultural and social ties whose affective impact I explore.

Open Source full text article: https://www.tandfonline.com/doi/full/10.1080/17540763.2025.2487588

Docot, D. (2025). An archive of archives lost. Photographies, 18(2), 223–244. https://doi.org/10.1080/17540763.2025.2487588