Photo caption: Ainu musician Oki plays the tonkori during a performance in New York on June 4, 2026. (Photo not for sale)(Photo courtesy of Richard Termine/The Japan Society)(Kyodo) ==Kyodo Image: Kyodo
Photo and text from Japan Today, 8/11/26. Source: https://japantoday.com/category/entertainment/feature-ainu-musician-brings-tradition-and-global-sounds-to-new-york
Ainu musician Oki returned to the city where he first began exploring his identity, bringing with him a sound that blends the traditional music of Japan's indigenous people with influences ranging from rock and reggae to African rhythms.
In early June, the sound of the tonkori, a traditional Ainu stringed instrument, reverberated through a concert hall in New York as Oki, 69, performed with the Oki Dub Ainu Band, the group he leads.
His music fuses traditional Ainu music with genres such as rock, reggae and Afrobeat. Returning to the city that had prompted him to reflect on his Ainu roots, he performed the distinctive style he continues to refine.
"I'm back home, New York City!" he called out during the concert. The packed hall erupted in cheers.
Oki was 4 when his parents divorced, and he grew up in Kanagawa Prefecture near Tokyo with his mother and stepfather. He did not learn that his biological father was Ainu until he was 22 and studying metalwork at the Tokyo University of the Arts.
Although he visited relatives in Asahikawa, Hokkaido, he felt like an outsider. He was neither "fully Japanese" nor Ainu, and struggled deeply, feeling lost and unable to define his own identity.
He had aspired to a career in contemporary art but could not find a form of expression that felt truly his own. At age 30, he moved to New York without a concrete plan.
While visiting art exhibitions, he met people from indigenous communities. He traveled to Arizona to visit one of them -- a Navajo artist -- and was struck by their traditional way of life. The experience deepened his awareness of his own roots.
He studied film production in the United States with the intention of building a career in the field, but a Japanese film project he was involved in fell through. He decided to start his life over in Hokkaido.
There, he encountered the tonkori, a five-stringed instrument passed down among Ainu who had migrated from Sakhalin to Hokkaido. At the time, there were no players left, and efforts to revive the instrument were just beginning within the Ainu community.
"Maybe this was the way I could find my own voice," he thought.
Through trial and error, he learned to play the instrument using postwar recordings as a guide and began composing songs in the Ainu language. He combined the electrified tonkori with bass and drums, blending it with reggae and African music he had experienced live in New York.
Today, Oki enjoys international recognition and is invited to world music festivals across the globe.
"I don't want being Ainu to be the first thing people associate me with," he said.
He sees interest in the Ainu -- who have historically faced discrimination -- as separate from appreciation of his own music.
"People who are only interested in the story of a young man of Ainu heritage playing the tonkori aren't really interested in my music," he said.
At the same time, he recognizes the importance of the Ainu telling their own stories.
Last year, he made his directorial debut with the documentary "Everyday Ainu," produced by the National Ainu Museum in Shiraoi, Hokkaido.
Speaking at an event at the Japan Society in New York the day after the concert, he said he wanted to make a film that tells "our own story," noting that many documentaries about the Ainu had been made by outsiders.
This is a rare example of how anthropologiy and salvage ethnography actually helped the Ainu (rather than stealing bodies and artifacts and basically decribing them as primitive barbarians). At the time Oki became interested in the tonkori there were no Ainu musicians who knew how to play it. He found old audio recordings taken by researchers and ethnomusicologists between the 1940s and 1960s. Oki had to listen to the poor quality recordings and learn how to play the instrument by ear, imagining how the fingers moved on the strings to make the tones and sounds.
Additional sources:
Oki / Tonkori In The Moonlight (Varja, 2022). https://note.com/yasuhide1978/n/nc161bc80e256?hl=en
Music as Weapon: Ainu musician fights for cultural survival (Tomoko OTAKE, Asia-Pacific Journal: Japan Focus, July 6, 2005) https://apjjf.org/tomoto-otake/1621/article
Explorations and experiments in visual representations - multimodality, sensory ethnography, reflexivity, autoethnographic vignettes, ethnographic photography and ba...
Tuesday, August 11, 2026
Saturday, August 8, 2026
"Old-Fashioned Sake Bar" Orihara Shoten - Monzen Nakacho ・「伝統的でありながらモダン角打ち」折原商店 - 門前仲町
Orihara Shoten is a liquor shop and a "standing drink bar" usually known as 立ち呑み屋 (tachinomiya). This shop many shelves with various kinds of alcohol and refrigerators filled with cold bottles of 日本酒 (nihonshu) - there is a lot to choose from! They sell bottles and single drinks as well. This kind of shop is known as a 角打ち (kakuuchi); it does not have a license to be a restaurant but can still sell drinks and simple snacks. It is standing room only - there is no seating available.
Orihara Shoten's roots go back to 1924 in Ikebukuro, but the shop in Monzen Nakacho opened in 2011 as a part of its "second foundation." It has the traditional vibes (matching the 下町 [shitamachi] atmoshpere, or old, nostalgic downtown of commoners), with all the modern conveniences (payments accepted in cash, credit cards and various digital wallet services). I like to stop in for a few quick drinks and snacks (usually before I take the shinkansen back home to Osaka) and always manage to have interesting conversations with the staff and customers. The also sell a variety of old-fashioned 駄菓子 (dagashi), inexpensive candies and snacks for children (so I can buy a few last minute omiyage/treats for my daughter).
It is also a great place to take photos (I asked for permission). You can see what I shot on my recent fiedtrip to Tokyo. There are also a few links at the end of the post for information about and access to the shop, and how it was featured in a popular 飯テロ (meshi tero) TV drama. Orihara Shoten website: https://www.orihara-net.co.jp/oriharashoten/
Orihara Shoten - Monzen Nakacho access ・ 折原商店 - 門前仲町 アクセス (source: https://www.orihara-net.co.jp/oriharashoten/shop/) Orihara Shoten featured on ワカコ酒 (Wakako Sake), Season 3, Episode 9 (TV Tokyo, 6/2/18): https://www.bs-tvtokyo.co.jp/wakako_zake3/story/index.html?story=s_09 Story about Orihara Shoten featured on ワカコ酒: https://www.tv-tokyo.co.jp/plus/drama/entry/2017/016147.html
Orihara Shoten's roots go back to 1924 in Ikebukuro, but the shop in Monzen Nakacho opened in 2011 as a part of its "second foundation." It has the traditional vibes (matching the 下町 [shitamachi] atmoshpere, or old, nostalgic downtown of commoners), with all the modern conveniences (payments accepted in cash, credit cards and various digital wallet services). I like to stop in for a few quick drinks and snacks (usually before I take the shinkansen back home to Osaka) and always manage to have interesting conversations with the staff and customers. The also sell a variety of old-fashioned 駄菓子 (dagashi), inexpensive candies and snacks for children (so I can buy a few last minute omiyage/treats for my daughter).
It is also a great place to take photos (I asked for permission). You can see what I shot on my recent fiedtrip to Tokyo. There are also a few links at the end of the post for information about and access to the shop, and how it was featured in a popular 飯テロ (meshi tero) TV drama. Orihara Shoten website: https://www.orihara-net.co.jp/oriharashoten/
Orihara Shoten - Monzen Nakacho access ・ 折原商店 - 門前仲町 アクセス (source: https://www.orihara-net.co.jp/oriharashoten/shop/) Orihara Shoten featured on ワカコ酒 (Wakako Sake), Season 3, Episode 9 (TV Tokyo, 6/2/18): https://www.bs-tvtokyo.co.jp/wakako_zake3/story/index.html?story=s_09 Story about Orihara Shoten featured on ワカコ酒: https://www.tv-tokyo.co.jp/plus/drama/entry/2017/016147.html
Friday, August 7, 2026
*Setting the record straight (regarding Inō Tadataka @ Tomioka Hachiman Shrine (富岡八幡宮) in Monzen Nakacho)...
OK, so Inō Tadataka「伊能 忠敬」lived from February 11, 1745 to May 17, 1818. And he wasn't really drinking with me at the izakaya (at least not in person). Inō sensei was a famous Japanese surveyor and cartographer. It is not such a stretch to suggest he was an ethnographer of sorts. I met him, or got to know him, by chance. On the last day of my recent research trip to Tokyo I had to check out of the hotel at 11:00 AM. I had an hour to kill before I could go to one last fieldsite, a close-by kakuuchi (see the next post). The Tomioka Hachiman Shrine was located next to my hotel, and I found a nice shady spot nearby to sit and wait. It happened to be near the bronze statue of Inō. It was a cool statue and I thought I might be able to use a picture of it in a class or something. I got up and took some photos. After a while, and much sweating in the hot summer sun, I was able to go to the kakuuchi (and its air conditioner). It was only later when I returned to Osaka that I did a little research to see who this person was and what his conection to the shrine was.
It turns out that after he retired from business at the age of 50, Inō lived close to the shrine in the Edo neighborhood of Fukagawa Kuroecho, which is now known as Monzen Nakacho. He was said to pray to the diety at this shrine before his first mapping trip to Hokkaido in 1800 and other subsequent trips. It became an important ritual for him, and since he was successful in 10 journeys, the shrine came to be associated with travel safety. The bonze statue of him was built in 2001 to commerate his ritual and work.
So if he could, why wouldn't he want to share some drinks and interesting discourse with a contemporary anthropologist?
This is a photo of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine I took in July 2023. Scroll down to Set III in the this link of more photos of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine at that time: https://visualanthropologyofjapan.blogspot.com/2023/07/vaoj-s2023rt-arc-theres-more-to.html
This is the shrine now, undergoing some refurbishment.
Tomioka Hachiman Shrine is conducting a commemorative project leading up to the 400th anniversary of its enshrinement in Reiwa 9 (2027). We ask for everyone's understanding and financial support. For details, please inquire at the shrine office.
Master Inō Tadataka, the pioneer of modern Japanese cartography, moved to Edo (now Tokyo) at the age of 50 after finding success in business. He established a residence near this shrine in Kuroe-cho, Fukagawa (currently Monzen-nakacho 1-chome). Approximately 200 years ago, during the Kansei era (Kansei 12, intercalary April 19th—June 11th, 1800, according to the solar calendar), he visited this shrine early in the morning to pray for safety before departing on his survey journey to Ezochi (Hokkaido). Master Tadataka went on to plan and execute a total of ten survey expeditions. Up until the eighth expedition, which mapped distant regions, he made it a strict rule to always visit Tomioka Hachiman Shrine before departing. Leading his internal disciples and attendants, he would pray for a safe journey, return to his residence to complete final preparations, and then head out toward the starting point of his survey. Consequently, this shrine is a place deeply connected to the mapping achievements of Inō Tadataka. To mark the 200th anniversary of the start of the Inō surveys, the "Inō Walk" mapping and surveying committee, land and house surveyors, the Inō Tadataka Research Society, and other related parties took the lead in raising public donations to erect this statue. October, Heisei 13 (2001).
So you are probably still wondering how Inō Tadataka got to the izakaya (and the Monzen Nakacho Train Station). I was able to use some online tools (pre-A.I. PicWish) to remove the statue from the original background (of the photo I took), and then I pasted it in to photos of the other locations (which I took). OK, so there is the full disclosure...
Sources:
Brock, John. (2019). Japan’s Most Famous Surveyor: Ino Tadataka and His Iconic 1821 Map of Japan! Tokyo: International Cartographic Association (ICA / ICC Meeting Proceedings) Accessed August 4, 2026. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/334378209_Japan's_Most_Famous_Surveyor_Ino_Tadataka_and_His_Iconic_1821_Map_of_Japan
Inō Tadataka Society (伊能忠敬研究会) and Watanabe, Ichirō. (2001). Erecting the Bronze Monument of Inō Tadataka: 200 Years of Mapping Japan. Tokyo: Inō Tadataka Monument Committee / Tomioka Hachiman Shrine Archives. Accessed August 4, 2026. http://www.tomiokahachimangu.or.jp/annai/inoTadataka/inoTadatak.html
It turns out that after he retired from business at the age of 50, Inō lived close to the shrine in the Edo neighborhood of Fukagawa Kuroecho, which is now known as Monzen Nakacho. He was said to pray to the diety at this shrine before his first mapping trip to Hokkaido in 1800 and other subsequent trips. It became an important ritual for him, and since he was successful in 10 journeys, the shrine came to be associated with travel safety. The bonze statue of him was built in 2001 to commerate his ritual and work.
So if he could, why wouldn't he want to share some drinks and interesting discourse with a contemporary anthropologist?
This is a photo of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine I took in July 2023. Scroll down to Set III in the this link of more photos of Tomioka Hachiman Shrine at that time: https://visualanthropologyofjapan.blogspot.com/2023/07/vaoj-s2023rt-arc-theres-more-to.html
This is the shrine now, undergoing some refurbishment.
English translation:
Tomioka Hachiman-gu Shrine
400th Anniversary of Enshrinement Commemorative Project
Donations Now Being Accepted
Tomioka Hachiman Shrine is conducting a commemorative project leading up to the 400th anniversary of its enshrinement in Reiwa 9 (2027). We ask for everyone's understanding and financial support. For details, please inquire at the shrine office.
Tomioka Hachiman Shrine Office
QR codes to give more information about shrine activies.
The Bronze Statue of Inō Tadataka at Tomioka Hachiman Shrine
English translation of information plaque:
Master Inō Tadataka, the pioneer of modern Japanese cartography, moved to Edo (now Tokyo) at the age of 50 after finding success in business. He established a residence near this shrine in Kuroe-cho, Fukagawa (currently Monzen-nakacho 1-chome). Approximately 200 years ago, during the Kansei era (Kansei 12, intercalary April 19th—June 11th, 1800, according to the solar calendar), he visited this shrine early in the morning to pray for safety before departing on his survey journey to Ezochi (Hokkaido). Master Tadataka went on to plan and execute a total of ten survey expeditions. Up until the eighth expedition, which mapped distant regions, he made it a strict rule to always visit Tomioka Hachiman Shrine before departing. Leading his internal disciples and attendants, he would pray for a safe journey, return to his residence to complete final preparations, and then head out toward the starting point of his survey. Consequently, this shrine is a place deeply connected to the mapping achievements of Inō Tadataka. To mark the 200th anniversary of the start of the Inō surveys, the "Inō Walk" mapping and surveying committee, land and house surveyors, the Inō Tadataka Research Society, and other related parties took the lead in raising public donations to erect this statue. October, Heisei 13 (2001).
Erected by the Executive Committee for the Construction
of the Inō Tadataka Bronze Statue
of the Inō Tadataka Bronze Statue
So you are probably still wondering how Inō Tadataka got to the izakaya (and the Monzen Nakacho Train Station). I was able to use some online tools (pre-A.I. PicWish) to remove the statue from the original background (of the photo I took), and then I pasted it in to photos of the other locations (which I took). OK, so there is the full disclosure...
Sources:
Brock, John. (2019). Japan’s Most Famous Surveyor: Ino Tadataka and His Iconic 1821 Map of Japan! Tokyo: International Cartographic Association (ICA / ICC Meeting Proceedings) Accessed August 4, 2026. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/334378209_Japan's_Most_Famous_Surveyor_Ino_Tadataka_and_His_Iconic_1821_Map_of_Japan
Inō Tadataka Society (伊能忠敬研究会) and Watanabe, Ichirō. (2001). Erecting the Bronze Monument of Inō Tadataka: 200 Years of Mapping Japan. Tokyo: Inō Tadataka Monument Committee / Tomioka Hachiman Shrine Archives. Accessed August 4, 2026. http://www.tomiokahachimangu.or.jp/annai/inoTadataka/inoTadatak.html
Thursday, August 6, 2026
Saturday, August 1, 2026
「VAoJ」has returned safely to Osaka after research in Tokyo・「VAoJ」は東京で研究をして、無事大阪に帰りました
Image: Inō Tadataka (1745-1818), the famous Japanese surveyor and cartographer whose bronze statue resides in the Tomioka Hachiman Shrine grounds in present-day Monzen Nakacho, joined the 「VAoJ」team at the nearby izakaya Daruma for a few drinks, fieldwork and photography*.
画像:伊能忠敬(1745-1818) ―― 現在の門前仲町にある富岡八幡宮の境内に銅像が立つ、著名な測量家・地図製作者である彼が、近隣の居酒屋「だるま」で「VAoJ」チームに加わり、酒を酌み交わしながら、現地調査や写真撮影を行いました。
画像:伊能忠敬(1745-1818) ―― 現在の門前仲町にある富岡八幡宮の境内に銅像が立つ、著名な測量家・地図製作者である彼が、近隣の居酒屋「だるま」で「VAoJ」チームに加わり、酒を酌み交わしながら、現地調査や写真撮影を行いました。
Additional photos are scheduled to be released soon.
近いうちに追加の写真が公開される予定です。
*I will explain how Inō sensei was able to come to the izakaya in another post soon...
*伊能先生がどうやってその居酒屋に来ることができたのかについては、近いうちに別の投稿で説明します...
































